Notes on Abkhazia. Excursions: group and individual
Numerous tourist representatives can easily choose a tour Abkhazia Or Sochi. Prices are the same everywhere, excursion bureaus do not make any discounts. The cost is from 550 to three thousand rubles. For example, an excursion to Lake Ritsa, which our new friends from Krasnodar visited.
Suggestions:
visiting the lake, stops at waterfalls, breakfast, tasting honey and wine, duration of seven hours, cost 950 rubles per person.
Actually:
- visit to the apiary, lecture on honey, sale of honey at cosmic prices - duration of 1 hour. Since this year, there is a quarantine, and the import of honey into Russia is prohibited. But of course they don't talk about it.
- Excursion to the wine cellar, tasting and selling wine - 30 minutes.
- visit the cafe twice - order meals and lunch. Duration of 1 hour, very high prices. Most tourists refuse to eat there.
- two waterfalls on the way.
Lake Ritsa, lasting 20 minutes.
- a proposal to collect from each of three hundred rubles to rise a little higher. Aggression when the group refuses to go.
- lack of promised breakfast.
- the duration of the trip is less than six hours.
In my opinion, you can not organize excursions in this way. People dreamed of visiting the Ritz, and not sitting on the apiary, in the wine cellar and cafe. Definitely, the travel agency also receives money from those places where it brings vacationers. But excursions to the Kodori gorge and to the Abkhazian feast are very praised. The most interesting places, in my opinion, are beyond Sukhum.
We decided that instead of an organized tour, we will take an individual tour and compile a program ourselves.
It turned out to be very simple, we went to the taxi drivers, named the places we wanted to visit, agreed on the cost, called two days in advance, determined the time. The cost is standard - from 3,500 rubles for one direction from the car. Five people were charged four thousand. Our route is the mineral spring Merheul, Chernigovka, Kamana (in travel agencies these are two different excursions).
The driver arrived at the appointed time and said that it was necessary to pay 200 rubles per person, because his car will not pass to the place where the Third Finding of Head John the Baptist took place in Kamany, and we will have to change to a jeep in Sukhum. We agreed because it is difficult to get there, the road is very broken.
On the way from New Athos, the conversations were as always about war, Russia, and the economy. In general, the conflict with Georgia is the most painful topic for the Abkhazians, they can talk about it for hours.
In Sukhum we moved to an old jeep, our driver Alexei, a former police major, advertised to us as an excellent guide.
Our dialogue for the first fifteen minutes:
Alexey, we were told that you are well versed in the history of Abkhazia. Tell us about the places we're going.
Beria lived in Chernihivka, and there was also a headquarters during the Great Patriotic War. You know, they make such great honey, you can't buy it here. We can stop by on the way.
We are not particularly interested, tell us about the history of Chernihivka.
Well, I already told you, during the war there was a headquarters, and in 1942 Beria lived there, weighing a sign. You can see it with your own eyes. And on the way, we can stop by for a wine tasting, my friend makes a great wine. You wouldn't buy that on the market.
Then maybe you can tell us about Sukhum.
Sukhum suffered greatly during the war, it has not yet been restored. You know, we can drive on the way to the Olga waterfalls, only two hundred rubles per person. It's very inexpensive.
You know, when I first came to Abkhazia twelve years ago, the Abkhazians showed us their country, were proud of it, told its history and did not only seek to take money from us. You were very hospitable, why has everything changed so much?
Let me play some music.
Half an hour.
I'll take you to Olga Falls for free. It is very beautiful, you will definitely like it.
From that moment everything changed, we talked, read a book on the history of Koman and Chernihivka, Alexey treated us with cockroach and blackberries, we ate well in a cafe, saw everything we wanted. And most importantly, there were no more commercial offers. Our tour lasted more than 10 hours, and we even exchanged telephones.
Now about the places we visited.
Stop first - mineral spring Merheul
Abkhazians appreciate water from it and consider it healing. It consists of two cranes, located on the bank of a mountain river. The water is delicious.
Stop the second – Olga waterfalls
In my opinion, this place is more beautiful than Chernihivka, it is less ennobled, less “spoiled” by man. Wooden paths along the banks of the mountain river lead to the waterfall, where you can swim if you wish. And upstairs in a small cafe you will find stunning baklava and magnificent coffee in the sand. The cost of the entrance ticket is 100 rubles. Very few people.
Stop three - Chernihivka
This is a very popular place, it looks more like a cafe by the river than a nature reserve. The reserve itself is small, it can be toured in fifteen minutes.
Stop four - Komana
The third finding of the honest head of John the Baptist occurred around 850, then the head was transferred to Constantinople. In the grotto on the site of the third discovery of the chapter there is the image of John the Forerunner, revered as not made with hands.
Unfortunately, now this image is closed with a stone plate, here you can put a candle, write a note. An iron staircase of 1150 steps leads to the grotto, those who are difficult to climb can sit on benches and relax. We got up surprisingly easily.
Stop Five - The Temple of the Martyr Basilisk
You can read about the miraculous deeds and tortures of the saint in any church calendar. Abkhazians believe that this place can cure all diseases, tell each other wonderful stories of recovery. If you ask any Abkhaz, he will tell you a few. Near the temple there is a sarcophagus with the relics of the saint.
Stop Six – Komana, Monastery of St. John Chrysostom
According to legend, the relics of John Chrysostom were located in this temple until they were transported to Constantinople. There is still a sarcophagus in the monastery that you can visit. From the observation deck on the back of the monastery there are beautiful views.
The seventh stop - Komana, Karst spring with healing water bearing the name of St. Basilisk
There is a legend that Vasilisk was killed in this place. The holy spring is dipped. And here you can find a stone, on it preserved drops of the martyr. It is hard to believe, but Alexei found one and gave it to the most needy of us. The stone actually shows frozen blood. They say he will protect his guardian. On the bank of the spring there is a table with benches, changing booths and an obelisk in memory of the fallen Abkhaz soldiers. There was fierce fighting in these places.
The eighth stop is a cafe with the national cuisine of Abkhazia: kebabs, trout, khachapur, lobio, wine
Final stop, swimming in the sea.
Places in New Athos: the grotto of Simon Cananite and the Anakopian fortress. Extreme Abkhazian
Historians disagree on the location of the relics of Simon Cananite, one of the disciples of Jesus Christ, but no one denies the fact that he is the baptist of Abkhazia and lived for a long time in the grotto. You need to pay 200 rubles for the entrance, excursions will be held for groups of 20 people. For two hours in the reserve, we did not meet a single guide. Washing should be carried out in the place where the cross stands. You can go down there through a hole in the fence.
It was here that Simon baptized the locals and was killed by Roman legionaries. But most do it near a spring of holy water. Upstream of the river you can see a blockage of stones, according to legend, soldiers did it to stop the river, but the water passed under the stones and continued to flow along the usual channel. High steps lead to the grotto, but if you find it difficult to climb them, you can turn right after the sign to the cave and go up the path. Before entering the grotto, candles are sold, they can be placed in front of icons in the cave. Inside, the priest is constantly praying.
The Anakopian fortress was once the capital of Abkhazia, and the reign of King Leon is called the Golden Age. To the fortress, which is located on the Iverskaya mountain, it is better to climb by taxi. The cost of the trip is 250 rubles, the price of the entrance ticket in 2018 is 200 rubles. The cash registers start working from seven in the morning. It is better to climb the mountain early in the morning, when it is not hot.
Now part of the road is being repaired, so it will be difficult to walk after the rain. The fortress perfectly preserved watchtower (you can climb to the roof), there is a partially preserved fortress built by the ancient Greeks, a well with holy water, the ruins of outbuildings and residential buildings. From the mountain there are stunning views of New Athos, Sukhum, sea, mountains.
After visiting the Anakopia fortress, we decided to walk up to three boilers by the signs. Don't do that. You can come there on the way from the Athos cave, and it is better not to waste time on this. We walked along a blurry, slippery road through the woods, first uphill, then downhill, uphill again and so on indefinitely. However, at each intersection there are signs, in any case you will not get lost. The bieleter told us that you can swim in one of the boilers, and it's okay that you do not have swimsuits. Here is such a secluded and beautiful place that you can swim naked, and after swimming, climbing the rope, we can see the waterfall.
Three boilers are a bed of a parched river with three small depressions in which water accumulates from the mountains. In these boilers, the Abkhaz offer to bathe tourists to do this, you need to go down the rope, walk, balancing, along a thin isthmus between the boilers, then grab another rope, and you will have a chance to plunge into a cool boiler. You can do this before with clothes and clothes. Deep down a tall man's waist. Behind the first two cauldrons, there is a third in which we were offered to swim naked, but we did not get to it.
The road to the waterfall is a sheer rock, a rope is thrown from above. We were there after the rain: the rock and the rope were wet and slippery. Insurance is not provided, you go there at your own risk. What's up there? A short walk through the forest and an offer to swim sixty meters to finally see the waterfall.
As the caretaker said, now the waterfall is a thin trickle flowing from the cliff. None of us got to the waterfall, maybe you want to. But it is worth doing this not in order to admire the opening views, but simply to go through an incomprehensible Abkhazian quest with an easy extreme. I think when it's not raining, it's a lot easier.
Abkhaz service
Almost all the waterfront cafes open at ten in the morning, and numerous holidaymakers who like to come to the sea early cannot have coffee or breakfast. Although the time from 7 to 10 am, on the contrary, the most comfortable for work, in Abkhazia this year there is some abnormal heat. But the owners of the cafe show amazing principledness in this matter and continue to work in the sun when there are no vacationers on the beach.
We decided to visit the Anakopia Fortress or, as it is called by Russians, Iberian Mountain, at six in the morning to make the climb comfortable. If you arrive early in the morning, you will also save two hundred rubles per person on tickets, because the ticket offices open at seven in the morning. But to find a car that at this time would take to the mountain, was problematic. The state taxi starts working only at half-eight. We approached three more drivers through tourist representatives, shop sellers. The answer is, "We don't get up so early."
Although the Abkhazians complain about the lack of money, pensions of five hundred rubles, they do not strive to earn this money. We are still “lucky”, a friend of the hostess of the hotel agreed to take us half in the morning. But the next day we waited for him half an hour, he didn't come. However, they do not experience any inconvenience. When we returned from the tour, the hostess began to convince us that the driver was coming, just standing a little behind, and we did not notice him. It is absolutely incomprehensible to not want to make money.
I would like to thank Moses on Mount Athos for the nightly conversations about the religion and traditions of the Abkhazians, for coffee and wine. George, the manager of the hotel in which we lived, for his willingness to help and great sense of humor. Diana, the owner of the beach cafe, for the delicious food and treat on our last day. Thank you to many other wonderful Abkhazians who made this trip amazingly beautiful.
Why you don’t want to go to Abkhazia
The Abkhazians are wonderful, hospitable people, always ready to help you, well aware of the history of their country. They don't abandon old people and children. But the majority of the Abkhaz are disgusting about animals. That’s why I don’t want to go back to this country.
In New Athos, where we lived, a huge number of stray cats and dogs ran along the beach, streets, hotels and cafes in search of food. Yes, vacationers feed them, but this is only for the holiday season, and this is not the solution. Cafe owners do not think to feed them with waste that remains after vacationers.
We tried to buy food for animals in coastal shops, but it turned out to be impossible. This causes the sellers to be puzzled, they do not understand why to buy dogs and cats special food. Even more perplexing are questions about veterinary clinics, pet stores.
For many Abkhazians, spending money on animal treatment is a waste. Therefore, most animals simply do not live until the next holiday season.
We had a conversation on the beach with a girl who wanted to take some dogs to Russia and put them in families. But there are only a few veterinary clinics in Abkhazia, so it is difficult to make a veterinary passport necessary for crossing the border. Dying and starving animals are not a problem to be solved from the point of view of the government of Abkhazia.
I really want to change the attitude to cats and dogs, open a state shelter, launched a program for sterilization – this will give at least some animals a chance to live and find a family. In Abkhazia, there is a group of volunteers who support homeless animals with their own money and donations, treat them, send them for transfer, help transport them across the border. For those interested, you can additionally get information from facebook.com/groups/AnimalAidAbkhazia and vk.com/animals of abkhazia.
Text and photo: Elena Konysheva