The Lost World: A Guide to Cambodia

Meet the dawn

If you go to Angkor Wat before dawn, you will be greeted at the entrance not by tourist crowds, but by a mysterious silence. Inside, the temple impresses with endless bas-reliefs on scenes from the Mahabharata and Ramayana. The temple complex of Angkor is huge, so it is better to take at least a couple of days to get acquainted with it. If there is not much time, you can tour the ancient city of Angkor Thom on a bicycle, explore the ruins of the temple of Ta Pruhm, in which the statues of the celestial beauty of the half-goddess-apsar remind of the 615 dancers who lived here. You can visit the temples of Angkor not only in the high season (November to April), but also during the monsoon period - from June to October, when the forest comes to life, the lakes are filled with water, and there are fewer tourists. This is the best time to go on a boat tour of Lake Tonle Sap and look at the floating villages.

Explore temples

In temples far from Angkor, a thoughtful visitor is more likely to feel the spirit of Cambodian antiquity than in places of mass "worship". To start, head to Banteaysrei Temple, located about 20 kilometers northeast of the main group of Angkor monuments. Banteaysrei, built in the X century from pink sandstone, is one of the most beautiful sanctuaries of Cambodia. On the rock bottom of the “Hand of a Thousand Lingams” at the foot of the sacred mountain Phnom Kulen are carved symbols of fertility and statues of the gods of the Hindu pantheon. 40 kilometers east of Angkor is another temple - Bangmealea. This huge temple complex was built at the beginning of the XII century, during the heyday of the Khmer Empire. In order not to get lost in its giant labyrinth, you should use the services of one of the caretakers who takes you through the overgrown vine galleries for a nominal fee of $3-5.

Go to the circus

Siem Reap is not a gateway to Angkor Wat, it is one of the new cultural centers of Cambodia. This is the Phare Circus in Cambodia. This creative association was born in the early 90s in Battambang as a school for poor children. With the help of dance, theater, modern music and unique circus art, artists recreate not only traditional subjects, but also moments of the new history of the country. I also advise you to look at the new cafe Crane (Central Market St.), where excellent coffee is brewed by the local company Rumblefish, - it is located in the old French district of Candal Village, which has become a fashionable place with restaurants, galleries and boutiques. The best bar in town is Long’s Bar (Doung Hem St.) with cozy armchairs and delicious cocktails: try a martini with fragrant pepper from the province of Kampot or vodka infused with basilica and pomelo. Often, tourists stay up late at The Harbor - a pirate bar with heavy rock and all kinds of entertainment, from stand-up comedians to fun board games parties.

Colonize metropolitan bars

Phnom Penh is an ancient city, but there is almost no ancient architecture in it - only the neighborhoods adjacent to the Royal Palace and the Art Deco Central Market building are interesting. The palace complex with the Throne Room and the Silver Pagoda and the National Museum with the largest collection of Khmer sculpture will definitely be in your program. But visit the Genocide Museum, housed in the dungeons of S-21 prison, and the “Death Fields”, where the Khmer Rouge tortured and executed victims of the regime, is worth only those with strong nerves. In general, Phnom Penh is unlikely to stun you as much as Ho Chi Minh City or Singapore, but it is homely and simple. To spend the evening as locals, visit one of the tiny bars on Bassack Lane Street. For shopping go to Psar Tuol – the so-called “Russian market” – there you can buy everything from silk fabrics to antiques and carved wooden figures of the Buddha. And for the weekend, go to the surrounding cities - Udong, one of the ancient capitals of Cambodia, or the quiet lake Tonle Bati.

Worship the widow Penh

One of the most important places in Phnom Penh is the Wat Phnom Monastery. This is where the history of this capital began. According to legend, the first temple on a high hill was built in the XIV century for four Buddha figurines, miraculously found in the waters of the Tonle Sap river by a widow named Penh. Vihara, a sanctuary with statues of Gautama, has been rebuilt four times over the centuries. It is said that during the Khmer Rouge regime, the original statuettes found by the widow were lost. The Buddha’s place is in the heart of believers. In the monastery there are other significant relics, including the sanctuary of the widow Penh and the tomb of King Ponya Yat, the ruler of the Khmer Empire, who in the XV century moved the capital of the country from Angkor to Phnom Penh. The monastery is always full of visitors and is especially crowded during the Khmer New Year, which is celebrated for three days in mid-April. At this time in Wat Phnom you can see how children and adults indulge in traditional Khmer fun - from tug of war to various games with songs and dances.

Look over the edge

The Praahvihea Temple Complex is located in the very north of Cambodia, near the border with Thailand. Until a few years ago, this monument was the subject of a dispute and a “temple of stumbling” between the two countries, but now everything is calm here. Preahvihea is located on a high plateau above the valley. Upstairs leads a rather steep road - it is forbidden to climb on your own car (however, for a dozen dollars they are allowed on personal motorcycles), visitors are brought to the ruins by a museum pickup truck or bike. The temple dedicated to the god Shiva symbolizes the sacred mountain of Hinduism - Meru. The complex is very large - you can easily spend three hours there, admiring the panoramas of Cambodian and Thai expanses from the windows opening in the walls of the galleries. The layout of the temple is oriented from north to south: from the entrance you gradually rise higher, bypassing the pavilions of gopur (towers) and stairs. Walking through the ruins, have a picnic on the edge of the cliff with one of the best views in Cambodia.

Wash an elephant.

The cool, forested hills of Mondolkiri lie in eastern Cambodia. The provincial capital, Senmonorom, can be reached from Phnom Penh in five hours. Most of the population here are members of the Pnong tribe, in whose life elephants play a huge role: they are not only an indispensable labor force, but also a kind of family members. When you come here, you will see how strong this connection is.

In a protected valley near Senmonoroma, we are protecting the virgin forest from felling, and at the same time we have created a “rest house” for elephants. They are hard hit both at rural jobs and in tourist centers. One of the elephants, the Princess, once injured her spine by carrying a heavy wooden saddle on her back, and two male riders tore their ears with hooks. So, no horseback riding! Go for a walk through the jungle on foot side by side with the giants, feed them (elephants eat bamboo shoots, but prefer bananas for dessert), swim with them in the waterfall: washing an elephant smeared in red clay is not an easy job! And the Pnong guides on the way will talk about how the tribe collects rubber in the forest, treats wild honey and cook fern soup at the stake.

Take a train ride

Battambang is the second largest city in Cambodia, but the atmosphere is calm and enjoys walking. Take a bike and explore the embankment of the Sangker River and the old quarters on the left bank - there are elegant colonial mansions built at the beginning of the last century. In the surrounding villages, you can look into old peasant houses on stilts, as well as see how rice paper is made, traditional sweets are prepared from glutinous rice and Khmer scarves are weaved. Battambang is not only the “rice basket” of Cambodia, but also the land of ancient monuments. One of the most remarkable is Phnom Banan, the same age as Angkor. There are many places that have gone down in history because of the atrocities of the Khmer Rouge. And most tourists know about Battambang only that here you can ride on the so-called bamboo train. This funny draught still connects the villages south of the town of Battambang, following a single-track, laid during the French colony. There is a danger that the bamboo train line will close soon, so hurry!

Arrange a march to the Neolithic

Ratanakiri is a mountainous province cut off from civilization in the northeast of the country. It is inhabited mainly by tribes professing animism. Many of their customs have remained virtually unchanged since prehistoric times. For example, the tribes of ziaray, tampuan and kazhok set around the cemetery wooden totems, which are designed to protect the dead on the way to the next world. Young krungs, having reached marriageable age, build “bachelor houses” on high pillars, in which they live until they have a family. In all local tribes it is customary to make sacrifices to spirits - usually buffaloes. Overgrown with dense forests or planted with hevei plantations, the Ratanakiri hills are rich in waterfalls and caves, and also deposits of zircons, amethysts and opals. The most beautiful local lake Yeaklaom, located near the provincial capital, Banlung, is nothing more than a water-filled crater of an ancient volcano. In the country’s largest national park, Viracay, you can get acquainted with the gibbon family, raft on a long-distance boat along the Cesan River and explore forest trails on foot or riding an elephant.

Become a forester

The Cardamom Mountains in southwestern Cambodia are an excellent destination for ecotourism. In these inaccessible places, one of the largest areas of tropical rainforest in South-East Asia has been preserved. The landscapes of the Cardamom Mountains are diverse - from formidable mountain peaks (the main peak of the country Phnom Oral is located here with a height of 1813 meters) to swamps and mangrove forests on the coast. To experience the richness of this “lost world”, visit the forest village of Chi Phat. Its residents themselves organize nights and excursions for guests. Many of them used to be poachers and now serve as guides. They will take you to waterfalls, caves full of bats, and ancient burials in the forest more often, show rare plants, animals and birds. Village families will gladly share a table and shelter with you, so that you get acquainted with their way of life.

See the pink dolphins

In the small town of Kratieh, located in the central part of the country, on the banks of the Mekong, come to admire the rarest Irrawadian freshwater dolphins. Kratieh and the surrounding area (or rather, the village of Campi, two dozen kilometers from the city) is perhaps the only place in the country where you are guaranteed to see these animals: after higher up the Mekong, in Laos, built a power station, in the north of Cambodia, dolphins are no longer found. The town itself is very pleasant with its sleepy rhythm of life and quarters of colonial houses. Take a bike and drive along the Mekong, visiting coastal fishing villages and staying overnight in colorful huts on stilts.

Conquer the jungle

Sihanoukville, located in the southwest of the country, on the coast of the Gulf of Thailand, is the only deep-water port in Cambodia. And also - the largest resort in the country, the area of which is constantly expanding. Of the seven famous beaches of Sihanoukville, I recommend resting on Sokha Beach at the hotel of the same name and on Otres Beach - it is located further away than the others, but the cleanest. The coolest beaches make sense to look for on the nearby islands of Sihanoukville: Koh Rong is discotheques and parties, Koh Rong Samloem is calm and relaxed. Remote islands lying 60-80 kilometers from the coast - the archipelagos of Koch Prince and Koh Tang and the "paradise" island of Koh Damlong - can be seen during a dive safari.

The surroundings of Sihanoukville are most interesting to master on a motorcycle - for example, in one day you can visit the waterfall of Kbal Chhai and in the Ream National Park. For two or three days, a more serious "expedition" in the real jungle is planned. Even I, though “lonely”, would not go there alone – there are too many dangers: from snakes and mines left from the war to the real possibility of getting lost or drowning a motorcycle in the river while crossing. Overnights are held in small Khmer villages, where there is no light, no water, no communication, food - only rice and fish, and on the way - meetings with elephants, monkeys and other representatives of the local fauna. It is not terrible if you do not have experience of riding - in three days you can prepare even a beginner for such a trip.

Feel the old days

Kep is the quietest and most peaceful resort in Cambodia. Neither war nor time has harmed its beauty. The dilapidated royal residence, abandoned modernist villas are remnants of former luxury, the “Cambodian Riviera”. Be sure to walk along the sea in the evening, admire the sunset. The best view of the surrounding area opens from the terrace of the restaurant in the hotel Veranda, besides the coffee, and the food there is quite good. For complete relaxation, take a boat and go to the Rabbit island of Koh Tongsai to nap in a hammock stretched between coconut palms, swim and feast on blue crabs. This delicacy in Kepe even has a monument. The next day, rent a bike and climb Mount Bokor - from its top opens a dizzying panorama of the coast, and dilapidated buildings give the place a slightly surreal look. End the day well in the nearby town of Kampot, admiring the sunset over the river and enjoying dishes seasoned with fragrant local pepper at the Rikitikitavi restaurant or Ta Eou (Riverfront Road).

See the world from above

Phnom Bokor is a mountain of 1100 meters high, located near Sihanoukville. From it open space views of the entire coast. But Bokor is also the name of a national park. It is worth coming here for the sake of settling on the polished time and elements of the plates at the very edge of the abyss near the Buddhist temple, meditating, looking into the distance (this is in good weather) or looking at the clouds swirling at the edge of the cliff. In colonial times, the French built a mountain resort with a casino, and then King Norodom Sihanouk built a residence. Most of the buildings of the former resort are now ruins that many find picturesque. One of the best places in the national park is Popoqueville Falls. Cascades are especially beautiful during the rainy season - from August to October.

Taste the dust.

One of the main components of Khmer cuisine is phusk, pasta made from fermented fish. Fishing in Tonle Sap Lake is seasonal, and the catch needs to be stored somehow. Many centuries ago, Cambodians came up with a way to stew fish, and still dust is an important source of protein in their diet. This product has a peculiar aroma that can scare off a beginner. Prahok should be tried, but there is nothing wrong with this: usually pasta is mixed with other ingredients. To begin with, you should taste “kti dust” with chopped pork and coconut milk. The best is at Rohatt Cafe and Marum Restaurant in Siem Reap. After that, you can already master the “push button” with pork, peanuts and basil (look for it at the kiosks opposite Angkor Wat). The most daring will also like the “trebucha tuk”, which is served in restaurants opposite the Wat-Damnak pagoda.

Scout: National Geographic