On vacation... to the mysterious Tmutarakan!

Traditional resorts of the Russian south – Anapa, Sochi, Crimea – are widely known and do not need additional advertising. For lovers of a more calm and measured rest, the Taman Peninsula is perfect.

First of all, it is a unique place that has preserved traces of ancient Greek culture. The peninsula was once part of the Bosporan kingdom inhabited by Greeks, Sarmatians and other peoples. The Greek colonies of Hermonassa and Phanagoria were also located here. Hermonassa fell in the fourth century AD under the pressure of the Huns, invaders from Asia. Later, the lands were under the rule of Byzatnia, then Bulgaria and, finally, the Khazar Khaganate. Then the city of Tamatarha appeared on the site of the former Hermonassa, which gave its name to one of the best coastal cafes in the village of Taman. Not far from Taman there is the settlement of Hermonassa-Tmutarkan, where archaeological excavations of ancient monuments are carried out. It is unlikely to enter the territory of the reserve, but it is quite possible to look with one eye.

In ancient times, on the southern spit of Cape Tuzla there were stone burial structures, which, unfortunately, have not survived to this day. The name of the spit, this thin strip of land in the middle of the sea surface, is of Turkish origin and means “salt opposite”. Spit separates from each other the waters of the Azov and Black seas. Part of the spit over time turned into an independent island, which is now located recreation centers. It is not recommended to postpone a visit to the island in a long box - it gradually goes under water, over the past few years about a kilometer of land has been washed away by water.

The resort places of the Taman Peninsula are the village of Taman, the villages of Wave, Golubitskaya, Kuchugury, Pereshyp, each of which has its own advantages.

Taman is located in the western part of the peninsula near the Kerch Gulf. To visit Kerch, it is not necessary to get there by land with many hours of standing in line at the crossing. The sea route to Kerch takes much less time and at the same time brings much more pleasure. However, there are disadvantages - the boat goes there irregularly and it is not always possible to plan this mini-trip in advance. Now on the peninsula in full swing construction of a bridge that will connect Taman with the Crimea, which will make walking around neighboring cities much easier and more comfortable.

There are many sights in the village of Taman, there is a unique Turkish fountain of the 15th century, a beautiful structure surrounded by a small garden. The road to it will take about 20-30 minutes in a slow step. Fans of the work of Mikhail Lermontov will appreciate the house-museum of the writer. It was Taman Lermontov who chose as the place where the action of the eponymous part of his novel “Hero of Our Time: Taman is the most bad town of all the seaside cities of Russia ...” unfolds. However, now Taman makes the opposite impression. The museum is in the care of well-known specialists-lermontologists, who are distant relatives of the writer’s nurse, which turns the museum into a lively history.

They say that the peninsula, this paradise of the Kuban is the capital of three seas: the Black, Azov and the sea of wine. Indeed, Taman is famous for its wines. They can be tasted in the museum of viticulture and winemaking on the street. Karl Marx in Taman village. There you can buy wine, which then warms you with cool autumn evenings and reminds you of the fabulous Kuban.

Not far from the coast is the ethno-cultural center "Ataman". A real Cossack village with all its attributes is open for visitors. It's the highlight of Kuban. It is there, in the atmosphere of the XVIII century held numerous holidays, festivals and fairs.

Those who do not sit still do not have to sit. For tourists, excursions to the most unusual places are organized - this is the mud volcano Hephaestus a few kilometers from Temryuk, and the lotus valley in Akhtanizov estuary near Golubitskaya, and ostrich and crocodile farms. By bus you can reach Anapa, Gelendzhik in a couple of hours, visit the valley of the river Jane and much more.

We cannot say that the infrastructure is highly developed, but it is quite enough for summer holidays. On the peninsula there are chain supermarkets "Magnit", individual grocery stores and, of course, markets with local fruits. Especially good local watermelons, melons and grapes.

Housing on the peninsula is also available for every taste and wallet - from budget options private sector (and these are usually cozy houses, drowning in greens, roses and grapes) mini-hotel and hotels. In Taman, the guest yard "Dikanka" is of particular interest, offering small authentic huts and a magnificent dining room, both for guests and for everyone. Prices are not the cheapest, but many will not be able to resist the temptation to settle at Vakula or Soloha.

One of the main advantages of the peninsula is its remoteness from the hustle and bustle of large cities, which can be safely attributed to Anapa with its, albeit small, but traffic jams, noise and crowded beaches. On the peninsula, there are sandy beaches (Waves, Kuchugurs), and pebble beaches (Taman). And there's plenty of room on each of them, whether you've come early in the morning to sunbathe alone, or whether you've decided to bask in the sun with your family or a group of friends in the afternoon. It is also an ideal place for both family and youth holidays. Couples with children are likely to prefer Taman or Golubitskaya, while Kuchugur and Wave will be more attractive to young people.

You can get to the peninsula by train or plane to Anapa, and then by bus or taxi to the village you need. Most hotels and hotels provide a transfer service, in which case you will be met right at the train station or at the airport.

Author of text and photo: Alena Khokhlova