Conquest of the capricious Polar Urals
Amidst the hustle and bustle of gray everyday life, we often give ourselves to dreams! The long-awaited holiday attracts us with its warm edges, azure coast and bright sun. But take your time to dream! Is there only a summer season for travel? Can snow and bad weather be a hindrance to the traveler?
Absolutely not! And, believe me, there are many people who prefer to sunbathe under the winter sun. These travelers are the heroes of our article, and it is thanks to them that we will now mentally go on a ski trip and together we will conquer the capricious Polar Urals.
The first thing that experienced tourists shared is the completed route: Syktyvkar – Art. Mikun, st. Yeletska is a top-down approach. Principal Pier is a versh. West Payer is a top-down approach. East Payer, st. Yeletskaya - Syktyvkar. The path is not short, but those who are interested in the hike will not be afraid of long distances.
So the journey begins. Together with tourists Dmitrieva Anna, Baganov Alexander and their leader Bayantuev Evgeny, we put on skis and go on a hike to see a new area and climb 3 peaks of the Payer mountain range.
St. Eletska to the area in which the peaks of interest are located, we are waiting for 2.5 days of skiing. This is a tundra zone, with a little vegetation, where in good weather you can see the foothills. Despite the fact that this area is quite severe in climatic conditions and bad weather often finds here tourist groups, we are pleased with the good weather. But tourists warn: this hike we make “sports”, that is, without a stove. This means that everyone picks up a hacksaw and saws the snow of the Polar Urals, which undoubtedly boasts of its high density. Next, from sawed bricks, we put a fortification wall around the tent, later it will shelter us from the wind. And to protect ourselves from the surprises of bad weather, we will put an ice wall at night at every parking lot.
Let's move on. Slowly, we approach the Main Payer and leave some of the products in the throw (that is, burrow into the snow and put a point on the GPS), sunbathe, photographed, and also frighten the local game (a large number of partridges and hares). Under Main Pier near the Oz. Kech-Pel-ty camp and plan to climb. There are several options for climbing to the top, and we choose not the most difficult. After breakfast, we go on the way, but, unfortunately, after 2 hours, we are forced to return to the camp, as the weather has made its adjustments: the sky is tightened, and visibility fell to 10 meters.
To take some time, go look for water on the lake in order to reduce the consumption of gasoline for burners, because cooking on water is faster than drowning snow. We were lucky to find water and get ready for the day. As we draw a map, prepare lunch and gain strength, the weather improves, and we make another attempt. This time it works.
The ascent is an ascent to the pre-top pass and the traverse of the summit ridge. We feel a strong wind blowing, and we see that the Main Payer Ridge is very dismembered, and in some places very narrow. And so, hanging the ropes and bypassing the danger, we get to the top: a large plateau opens before our eyes. Despite the fact that the top was shrouded in a cloud, we are filled with joy from what we saw - unforgettable panoramas adorn us. As you know, Payer is a capricious peak and does not let everyone visit, but luck accompanies us, and through the fog and wind we see the rays of the sun. After enjoying the views, we go down to camp in the evening.
Day two. Early on a sunny morning, we head out to West Payer. We climb to the northwestern spur of the summit, where we meet a simple and long climb. Climbing to the top, we find traces of previous tourists. Then we descend to the West Pier Pass, using simultaneous and railing insurance. The West Piersky pass is avalanche dangerous, so on the way to the camp we do not forget about the avalanche ribbons.
Day three. The plan is to descend from the gorge and climb to the top of East Payer. Together with tourists, we see that the sky is tight and visibility is not the best. Not despairing, very quickly down the stream on skis to our throw of products, pick them up and begin to climb the stream Haruta Shore under the East Payer. Bad weather makes us camp longer than usual, and we choose a place near the stones to protect ourselves from the wind.
Day four. Optimism is absent, we expect new surprises of the weather. But soon we realize that Pier, apparently, fell in love with us, and, wearing a mask (wind protection), we begin the climb, we manage to climb to the top. The ascent and descent are simple, although there are enough cats and an icebreaker, there is no need to hang the rope.
Meanwhile, spring comes to the mountains, and we have no choice but to go to the station. Dramatic warming and southerly winds promise slipping on skis and river ice, and we easily roll down the Haruto Shore creek, where a pleasant surprise awaits us. We meet reindeer herders. Of course, we do not enter the plague, because we are afraid not to observe any traditions. We give away some of the medicines and the remaining products to the women, and one of the reindeer herders surprises us: takes a photo to remember his digital camera! The tech got there too!
Satisfied with the unforgettable hike and the friendly attitude of the mountains, we reach the place of our first overnight stay and see that the wall we were making has collapsed and melted by half. There is still 9 km to Eletskaya... The campaign is nearing its end, and the capricious and unpredictable Payer remains in our memory and in successful photos.
Elena Mammadova
Photos provided by the author