In the heart of Parma. Part one
Residents of Yekaterinburg, which now occupies the position of the capital of the Middle Urals, it is difficult to imagine that once the city of St. Catherine was a county city of the province, whose full-powered mistress was a proud perm.
The current Perm origin is the same factory as ekaterinburgEven the founding fathers of the two cities are common - Vasily Nikitich Tatishchev and Wilhelm de Gennin.
Given the exceptionally favorable location at the confluence of Kama and Chusova, Vasily Tatishchev in December 1734 declared Yehoshinsky plant the center of Perm state plants. Soon the legendary Motovilikha grows nearby. Thus, the largest industrial, commercial and transport center of the Kama region was born.
And in our time, the neighboring regional center will surprise fans to travel around their native land with a unique fusion of merchant and military history, political and primitive, and will also rise to the tops of big football and big ballet.
You can go on the way by car, train or bus.
The first two options are most comfortable.
If you prefer driving, be sure to plan to visit unique attractions along the way.
Directly near the highway Yekaterinburg – Perm R-242 are Kungur with the famous cave and the waterfall Plakun, unusually beautiful in winter, and Belogorsk monastery.
Travel in the compartment of the train will take a little more than 5 hours, during this time you can make up for an early departure to sleep (the most convenient time to depart from Yekaterinburg is at the sixth hour of the morning). And finally calculate the routes and excursions.
Important note!
It is worth going to Perm for two days to spend the night. Not only because of road fatigue, but, above all, so that you have a free evening in Perm to visit the pearl of Russian classical dance - the Perm Opera and Ballet Theater named after P.I. Tchaikovsky.
The artistic credo of the theater is the development of the entire heritage of Peter Ilyich. Abroad, the troupe tours under the name “Tchaikovsky Theatre”. Here you can see all 10 operas and 3 ballets of the great composer, whom the Permians call a native of the Kama region.
Perm Opera House is one of the oldest theaters in the country, it was opened in 1870. Modern productions often become winners of the Golden Mask.
The new face of the musical art of Perm was created by the phenomenal Theodor Currentzis, who was the chief artistic director of the theater from 2011 to 2019. Under his leadership, the grandiose Diaghilev seasons took place, along with him, part of the musicians of the Musica Aeterna Ensemble orchestra moved to the city.
The soloists of the ballet are graduates of the choreographic school, located in the old building of the former women's diocesan school. In 2020, the famous ballet school will celebrate 75 years.
In addition to the opera house, the original and provocative Theatre by the Bridge is widely popular. This is an author's theater created by director Sergey Fedotov.
The slogan of the theater: “At the Bridge” is the Mystical Theater, in which everything is real, and the Real Theater, where everything is Mystic. The theater team is a three-time nominee and laureate of the Golden Mask National Award, winner of 45 Grand Prix of foreign festivals. According to the rating of the magazine FORBES Theatre "At the Bridge" is among the ten best theaters in Russia.
Academic theater originates from the revolutionary fuse of young actors and the ringing name TRUM (Theater of Working Youth). Over the years of creative research, the Perm Academic Theatre-Theatre has grown from TRAM.
And in the bowels of the Theatre-Theatre, a new stage space is being born: Theater of the present time "Scene-Hammer", focused on modern drama. Are you at risk of falling under a deafening flow of expression? Buy a ticket to the play!
Where to stay
There is no shortage in hotels in Perm, so when choosing, you can pay attention to the nuances.
So, in the hotel "Avant" guests praise the evening soup and almost homely atmosphere.
In "Abajour" hearty breakfasts, especially recommend ordering "Russian". Just in case, stock up on a bottle of plain drinking water.
There are hotels in the lower floor of which there is a restaurant. These are Aura-Aquarel and Prikamye, both hotels are located in the central part of the city.
Calmly and with dignity, you can relax in the rooms of the Astor hotel, at Peter and Paul, 40. Not far from the hotel is the embankment of Kamy, the Museum of Perm Antiquities and the zoo.
Economical and acceptable - this is about the hostel "Cashmir", which is characterized by exceptionally positive reviews.
Where to eat.
Perm has preserved the atmosphere of merchant hospitable houses, many of whose owners were engaged in tea trading. So the sense of drinks and sweets Permians know.
Be sure to look at the tea and pastry “Gribushin”. Here you will find the most exquisite tea and fragrant pastries, there are dishes for vegans. The merchant mansion offers to visit the excursion before meal (only 100 rubles!), if you wish, you can participate in master classes, quite often live classical music plays in Gribushin.
Quite high ratings are held by restaurants Fort Grand, Les Marches, The Place 81/10 and Ratatouille.
A special love is enjoyed by the exquisite La Bottega.
Of course, traditional fast food chains in Perm are also represented, so you can have a snack with the usual burger or twister.
It is simply impossible to come to Perm and not try the famous pies-"sitting" cakes. Just prepare accordingly: safely cover expensive clothes from splashes of meat juice. They say that the most delicious are cooked in the grill bar "Vehotka".
You can eat in the building of the Legislative Assembly of the Perm Territory, going to the buffet through the gallery directly from the organ hall of the Philharmonic. In the daytime, the passage to the building without special passes is closed, so you will only get a theater buffet to visit.
When planning an evening in the city, be sure to walk along the embankment to admire the majestic panorama of river arms and beautiful lighting of bridges and structures. Of course, moving away from the center would be unwise. Choose lively and lighted streets.
Text: Anastasia Scherer
Photo: nashural, uraloved