Georgia 2019: rest in the off-season
Georgia It has become very popular recently. Notice? We didn’t dream about it, but we thought about it for a long time. Black Friday and the main low-cost airline of all Russia gave us such an opportunity. As a bonus - the opportunity to check whether there is a rest in the off-season. Departure dates were limited to March.
Of course, after the purchase, fears began to wander - how was it in March? What's the weather? Is anything working at all? Is it possible to drive on mountain roads? Will it rain and blow us to the wind?
The fears decided to cast aside and test everything on their own experience. When we bought tickets, we almost immediately decided that we were renting a car for part of the trip. Because they wanted to see a lot. Kids are more comfortable in the car.
The route was rebuilt several times. As a result, they chose to rush to Batumi (380 km) on the first day. We arrived in Tbilisi early in the morning. The car was taken downtown. And then the quest began - get out of the Georgian capital without a heart attack.
If you are not an extreme driver, then the stress of what is happening on the roads of the Georgian capital is ensured! And I’m not even talking about the dashing manner of driving (although where without it). There are a lot of unregulated crossroads! Sometimes these intersections consist of 8 directions, some of them go uphill, some downhill... what is happening on the road at this moment... A valerian won't save you!
Outside the city has become much more comfortable! But do not hope for a high speed of movement along the highway, as there are many winding mountain areas and settlements that flow smoothly into each other.
It is very important to believe not the navigator, but the signs! As part of the route from Kutaisi is closed and you need to go around. We circled three times and went back to the brick on the track.
Landscapes change, from dry grass to snowdrifts, from snowdrifts to flowering trees. Mountains everywhere. Big, small, huge, green and snowy.
The fewer kilometers left to Batumi, the warmer the air became. Outside the window began to slip shaggy mimosa and flowering tcemals. To us, the Urals, who flew from -15 C and snowdrifts, all this seemed a mirage.
When traveling, we almost always try to live in rented apartments. We see many advantages in them. One of the most important is to feel a little local.
But in the process of choosing it is better to familiarize yourself in advance with the features of housing of a particular country.
In Georgia, there is almost no central heating. And if in the summer this moment is not important, then in March you can freeze out of habit! And if we take into account that hot water is not centrally served, then it will not be possible to wash. Heating is what you can do. Basically, they put gas columns.
But it is better to immediately specify whether all the rooms are heated and what with water.
For us, when choosing, the walking accessibility of the center was fundamental. They didn't take the stroller. And there was no point in it - there are many places just not to go.
The cost of housing for two weeks in all cities for a family of four turned out just ridiculous - less than 10 thousand rubles.
So, our route from Tbilisi: Batumi (3 nights) - Kutaisi (2 nights) - Borjomi (2 nights) - Tbilisi (7 nights without a car).
We really liked Batumi. A dynamic city in terms of life and development. Reminiscent of a European resort, striving for futurism, but with a Georgian flavor.
There are great playgrounds for kids. It's blooming.
Since it rained one day, we went to a few museums. Not something super-outstanding, but for general development is suitable.
Batumi. The strongest impressions:
Walking on an empty promenade
Many people have written to me: Why do you go to the sea when you can’t swim? The sea is not superfluous, I tell you! Watch, run away from the waves, throw stones, watch the sunset, breathe! Isn't that enough?
Breakfast with the mayor of the city
The usual diner under the window. A couple of tables were set. When he arrived, he came to our table and asked if we liked everything. I introduced myself. Then he told the waiters we were his guests. In the end, our bill was paid. Shock. But nice!
Fish market
Buy fresh fish here, and give it to the nearest cafe. By the way, the fish was taken there by the seller. You can walk, of course. But he suggested it. And the transport was so funny that we couldn't refuse. There are a lot of cafes and they all have sea views. Seafood from the cafe menu is much more expensive.
Botanical garden
Must see! Even if you're with kids, you're not. You can walk, without exaggeration, all day. No playgrounds were found. But we didn't really need them. The flora is so diverse that only the mouths can be opened. Eucalyptuses, magnolias, bamboo, camellias, mandarin trees and more. Stunning views of the sea and the city. In some places there were lizards, then fish, then cats. The kids were on the case.
kutaisi
The second capital of Georgia. But Tbilisi is different. The city is more provincial. The center is cozy and life is boiling. In the sleeping areas, by the way, also boils, but for tourists there is hardly anything interesting.
We had to walk downtown for one evening. The Reoni River looks very unusual. Even more unusual is the White Bridge above it, with transparent sections under its feet.
In this city is the Parliament of Georgia and buried, revered by Georgians, King David IV Builder.
Scenic roads lead to natural attractions through villages. You will have to drive around cows, pigs and chickens, rushing, on their own business, right along the roadway. Children have separate experiences. The earth is full of daffodils. The air was heated to +20 C.
Martville Canyon
It's a beautiful place. Gorge, waterfalls, trees covered with moss. It's all fascinating. Without children, you can meditate. A boat ride is a pleasure, but not for long. But children under 1m will not be allowed.
The water in that part of the canyon is some incredible color! Amazing rocks hang overhead.
Prometheus Cave
We liked it, although many people were unhappy. Very big. It has a constant temperature of +14 C and a humidity of 98%. I read that young children are not allowed. But the daughter was in her backpack and we were told at the checkout that it was your decision and your responsibility. I wouldn't let go running there.
We did not plan a walk in Tskaltubo Park, but the children are such children. The park is beautiful, manicured. The complex with rhodon baths, in which Stalin himself bathed, and an open source where you can wash.
But the town looks depressing. In Soviet times, sanatoriums were located there. And, judging by the buildings, not only for mere mortals. There should be balls, but now everything is abandoned. Refugees live in some buildings.
Borjomi.
A quiet resort town. Reminds me of Karlovy Vary, but... In Georgia, it's often BUT. Missing master! Not very well maintained. A lot of throwing and destruction right on the tourist routes. There's garbage floating in Borjomka.
We tried mineral water from sources. Climb the mountain. And we got to the baths. The path in one direction is 5 km off-road. Honestly, it's not worth it.
Nature along the way, of course, fabulous! Mountains, rivers, carpets of snowdrops and cyclomena. The water in the source is definitely not + 38 degrees. It's much colder. The weather we had was not comfortable. How they swim in the winter, I don’t know. Though we barely got our daughter out.
Rike Fortress
This place is amazing. Not even many Georgians know about him. Tourists are not advertised. But we really liked it. Who's with the kids must see.
Of course, the fortress is almost completely restored and looks new. But it's so cool. You can walk on the wall and gardens, climb all the towers, go down to the prison.
There are cafes, toilets, a museum, souvenirs and even a hotel. Accidentally we entered the conference room, and there the employee told us almost the whole history of the fortress and the city. The area is spacious and well maintained. There are places to run and things to see.
Vardzia
We were not going to go, but the owner of the apartment in Borjomi said - you have to! Listen and let's go.
The road isn't easy. Mountain serpentine, possible landslides, rockfalls and that's all. But the views are very beautiful.
I also liked the cave town. Very unusual, impressive, large. The scenery is amazing! The climb to the city is not easy. Long enough uphill, but the path is smooth. There are toilets upstairs.
Tbilisi
I left two impressions.
The city is good, but it lacks much. It's sad that there's a drop everywhere. Even downtown. The houses that are the symbol of the city are falling apart before our eyes. Historic houses, with incredible ceremonial, are also in a deplorable state.
But still, we liked it there. There are comfortable parks. There are children’s playgrounds, although there are not as many as we would like. Travel by public transport - 0.5 l = 12.5 rubles. The cable car is 2.5L.
Most, most impressions
Weeping Rock
It's constantly flowing water. It is not a waterfall, but it looks unusual in the city center.
Sulfur baths
You have to go! However, we were told that in some cases it is not worth it because of low moral principles of administrators and visitors.
Therefore, they chose between the most beautiful bath Orbelianovskaya and Gulo. The second is simpler, cheaper, but they did not accept cards.
The choice was made for us. The inside is very beautiful, everything new and clean. Administrators recommended taking a room with a rest area for 70 liters. But there weren't any at the right time, so we went to the one over 50. We've had enough, I must say. The bather in this bath is 20 liters per person. Without a bather, there is no point in going. The water is hot, but you get used to it quickly. After a cool shower, great!
Legvtakhevi Gorge
A piece of wildlife with a waterfall in the heart of the capital. This is only possible in Georgia. Great place for a quiet walk.
Mount Mtatsminda
Climb the funicular, assess the scale of the city from a height, drink lemonade in the local confectionery (the prices there are unusually high even for Tbilisi, so I advise you to eat in advance). Lucky, if the veranda works, then you can enjoy both a sweet and a view of the city.
If with children, it is especially necessary to climb, since there is an amusement park on the mountain. Payment with a local card, the balance of which is replenished at the cash register. Cost from 1 to 3.5 liters.
Map of the park 2L, travel on one with one exit at any station - 3L.
Flea Market on the Dry Bridge
You don't have to buy anything here. But walking, looking, touching, talking - very interesting! Kids too. Although they have to be monitored, since all products are publicly available, and among them there are many antiques and fragile things.
Agmashenebeli Avenue
A pedestrian street with many cafes. It is worth visiting there at least to understand that Tbilisi still knows how to care for buildings and restore facades.
Food.
Georgia is a food country! They like to eat here. Try the local seasonal fruit. Grenades with the taste of pomegranates, tangerines with the taste of tangerines. Prices depend on where and how to buy. Pomegranates cost 4l per kg in vegetable shops. Mandarins on the highway 5L per basket (about 2-2.5 kg). Apples from 1l per kg.
The dried persimmon is delicious! Even my non-persimmon lovers beat her on both cheeks. 12 l per kg.
Churchell - 1.5-3 liters per unit. The one we sell is not comparable, of course.
Khachapuri of all kinds of regions. They differ from each other in shape, filling, size. Prices from 2 to 12 liters in cafes and cafes.
Lobiani is very unexpected, but the whole family liked the bean pies so much that they asked to cook them at home.
Hinkali is the most affordable, satisfying and complete food. A serving is usually at least 5 pieces. The average price is 0.6-0.8 liters per unit.
On hot dishes, prices range from about 5 to 20 liters. Almost everything is markedly sharp. But you can ask that pepper not be added. Children were always given something to feed.
Homemade wine from 10 l / liter. You can find it cheaper in shops.
Most often for lunch / dinner in a cafe for our family we paid about 40 liters.
Entrance tickets for different objects from 2 to 20 liters per adult. Children rarely needed tickets.
Experiencing the weather was not justified. I think how worried I was, how lucky I was with her. We were not just in the spring, but almost in the Ural summer. So don’t be afraid to go off-season! March in Georgia is beautiful and warm. Tcemals, apricots, almonds are blooming. The sun is warming, birds are singing, khinkali are cooking and waiting for everyone to visit!
If people say that Georgia is beautiful, they are not exaggerating. The season, not the season, doesn’t matter.
Because the warmth of this country lies in the hearts of people! Open, fun, good-natured, hospitable. People who genuinely care about their country, what impression it makes and what awaits it in the future.
Text and photos:
Lysenkova Eugene
http://lephotos.ru
@lephoto ekb