Walks in Siberia (Yugorsk travel notes)
From the memoirs of Hungarian journalist Peter Erdeli:
At first glance, it seems that the man, a representative of the Khanty people, is focused on straightening the harness on the deer, checking whether everything is OK with the equipment and sleigh. However, coming closer, you immediately realize that he is all over the pre-launch excitement, which is further enhanced by curious tourists who strive to get closer. But the loudspeaker on the roof of the truck – a kind of judging stand – comes to life, and the first participant of the competition goes to the start. He goes on acceleration 10-15 meters to the starting line. The countdown begins the moment he crosses it. The four reindeer are racing light sledges across the frozen river so quickly that they seem to be flying, and the cries of the kayur (deer driver) echo across the snow-covered tundra. Fascinated by watching this ancient competition of reindeer herders-Khanty, we seem to be transported into the past for hundreds and thousands of years.
Modern Siberia
From Moscow to the Khanty-Mansiysk Autonomous Okrug, or rather to its capital Khanty-Mansiysk, the flight takes only three hours. Even before landing from the window you can see a picturesque view of Khanty-Mansiysk, a city on seven hills. In general, Siberia is exactly what most people imagine it to be – huge and cold. I first visited her in the spring. The locals vying to say that I acted wisely, because at this time it is not cold - only 28 degrees of frost.
Due to the harsh weather, the builders have only four months to complete all outdoor work. However, despite this, the capital of Ugra (another name for the region) Khanty-Mansiysk is surprisingly rapidly developing: every year, new buildings of glass and metal grow in places where previously there were wooden houses of barracks, and wide avenues appear instead of narrow streets. The mayor of the city Valery Sudeykin explains the reasons for the changes: Fifty-eight percent of all oil in Russia is produced here, in the Khanty-Mansiysk Autonomous Okrug. Today, global companies are competing with each other to get their share of the pie in our oil fields.”
Khanty-Mansiysk differs from many Siberian cities in that it looks more modern. Life in the capital of the district is full of events: international sports competitions such as the biathlon world championships, film festivals (traditional international film festival "Spirit of Fire"), as well as scientific forums and conferences are regularly held here. And every year the city is expanding and modernizing.
Naturally, not all local residents are happy with this course of events. Many of them say that they miss the old boardwalks, soaked in time, and wooden huts, on the site of which is now the construction of multi-storey houses. “They destroy our living history,” the old-timers resent.
However, the passion for the new intoxicates local builders and investors. The most ambitious projects are being implemented in Khanty-Mansiysk today. A typical example of this is the grandiose bridge across the Irtysh, the total length of which is 1136 meters.
The Khanty-Mansi Autonomous Okrug is equal in area to France. While the number of its inhabitants does not reach one and a half million people.
Siberia is traditional.
However, it is only necessary to move away from the big modernized cities, as the eyes open the very "traditional" Siberia. In summer, northern villages from Khanty-Mansiysk can be reached by water, and in winter by car on a frozen river, or by plane. To the city of Beloyarsky fly about forty minutes, and from there to the regional center of Kazym and very close.
About 1,700 people live in Kazym, several thousand more are dispersed in the vast territory of the district, among fields and forests. Local residents are engaged in reindeer herding, as well as hunting and fishing. Most of them still live in plagues.
Reindeer sled racing is traditionally held here every year. They are jokingly called the Siberian Olympic Games. The Sorum River, covered with a crust of ice, serves as the perfect track for riders. The participants of the competition proudly show the fans their harnesses. Usually there are three or four deer that pull light sledges. And they are sitting on it (or on it).
During such "people's Olympic Games" local residents, Khanty and their closest neighbors, Komi, come out to measure their strength and in the literal sense of the word. Members of these two ethnic groups often start fights, especially during big holidays. Therefore, recently, dozens of police officers began to monitor the order throughout the route.
Races such curtains arrange not only for the sake of sports achievements and not for the sake of fame. For riding tourists on sledges and even for photos with them, they ask for tidy sums. But those who are not stingy, get a stack of vodka and a piece of raw venison as a snack. That's the local hospitality. Do not be offended by such a treat: as old-timers explain, in the northern regions of Siberia the summer is short, and there are few sources of vitamins, so Siberians eat venison and fish raw, so as not to lose precious trace elements during heat treatment.
The Siberian people are unique. Every tourist while visiting towns and villages far from the capitals often comes to mind the thought, how can these people live and be happy in such terrible conditions? But that is their tradition. Although they are nomadic peoples, the vast territory of Siberia is their homeland, which they will never leave. They are bound by blood, and their ancestors rest in this land. Indigenous people say those who have left their homeland will become "homeless wanderers." So their choice is this vast, cold and free land.