Fabulous and strong Altai: bad people just do not get here
This summer, we realized a long-term dream, and visited Altai with the older children!
It was probably the most unusual and interesting holiday we had to take part in.
And primarily because it is a fabulous and strong energy place.
And secondly, it was a real tourist trip with accommodation in real field conditions.
On this trip, we joined experienced tourists who have repeatedly traveled to various places in the world and Russia.
To be honest, I have long doubted whether to go there with children because of the conditions. And I was most embarrassed by the "toilet in the bushes."
But in fact, it was much easier, having suffered for the first time, my children were no longer involved in this process. :
In addition to planning the route, there was “alp preparation” for the guys who were going to climb Mount Belukha.
A week before the trip, we made a trial hike with complete backpacks, with the preparation of lunch in camp conditions on a gas burner.
On Saturday, July 23, we left. ekaterinburg. We had three nights planned on the way. Novosibirsknear barnaul And the final night in the village of Tungur.
Very pleased with the good quality of the roads, except for the last 300 km in Altai. It felt like we were driving on the washboard.
Many sanitary and hygienic points were built along the way. The toilet costs 20-50 rubles. But this is a toilet that is not afraid to bring a child. Very clean, decent.
From Tungur, we had a 17 km throw on GAZ-66 ("Shishiga") to the point "Three birches" and then a pedestrian crossing about 25 km to the base parking in the Akkem valley.
We made the way from "Three birch" to Akkem in 2 days: the route is quite difficult, a lot of climbs up, sometimes along kurum. We walked for 40-60 minutes, then rested for 15 minutes and started again. We stopped for lunch, which was cooked on gas burners. Well, in the evening of the first day, we found a pleasant place and decided to set up a camp, so that later in the dark, tired, not to look for a place for camp. You can always collect a bottle of water along the route and there is no need to carry a large supply.
Akkem valley
In the afternoon, we reached the Akkem valley and chose a place for the base camp, a place in the closest proximity to the Akkem glacier.
It is necessary to issue a permit to visit the border guards in advance, since Belukha Mountain is in close proximity to Kazakhstan. Border guards issue a permit, which for the duration of stay in the border zone must be carried.
The head of our group submitted all the documents for permission in advance. We were discharged, one of the options is in the post office.
It turned out that in the post office of Gorno-Altaisk our permission for some reason is not, it is somewhere lost. The border guards have a document, the border guards have confirmed it, but they cannot remove a copy from it: there is no copy in the post office. We searched several offices but never found them.
But since we have come a long three-day journey in cars, we decided to take a chance and continue the journey! As a result, our group, which was supposed to climb Beluha, came to the border guards at Tomsk parking lots, and such a dialogue took place between them.
- Where's the pass?
- We were discharged.
- Show me.
- We couldn't get it. The Russian Post has lost it.
In the end, the guys wrote an explanatory note, and everything ended well! Nobody was even fined.
Akkem Glacier (3rd day)
I really want to write about how beautiful Altai is, but I lack vocabulary. We, accustomed to the plains of the Ural mountains, it seems a real fairy tale! On the first day we walked towards the Akkem parking lots, tears came from my eyes :
Very beautiful! Very diverse.
Surprised by the variety of plants. Dwarf birch, cedars, juniper, wild raspberries, wild black and red currants! A lot of blackberries, lingonberries.
We met an amazing berry called water. The berries are slightly similar in size and color to blueberries, but they have small bones inside. Berries are very juicy, although they do not have a pronounced taste - they are really some watery-watery.
We always picked blackberries on the way. It's bitter, but it's delicious! And for breakfast and dinner always cooked compote!
We wanted to find the Sagan Daile plant. We like to add it to our tea in the morning. Very invigorating! But they never found it, although they sniffed all the shrubs.
The next morning after the base camp was installed, we had breakfast and were going to see off our main group, who had planned to climb Beluha. Together we went to the Akkem glacier.
The most interesting thing is that it was my birthday! This is, of course, the most unusual birthday I have ever had. We prepared a festive borscht of bags and a wonderful festive compote of honeysuckle.
After the festive dinner, the groups dispersed - our dad went with the guys to conquer Belukha.
We were very worried, of course. The children were especially worried: the ten-year-old son was so excited when his father left that he began to control my every move.
Quite often the path was near the cliff, and he always walked on the side of the cliff. I tried to convince him for a long time that if I backed down and started to fall, I would take it off this cliff with my backpack and there would be no one to help us.
In case he goes in front or behind me, he can give me a stick and pull me out or call for help. I couldn't convince him until he found a small pointed white stone. Then I had a brilliant idea. I said to him, "Look, Belukha gave you a tooth that everything will be fine." After my words, the guy was released, and he immediately went far ahead.
In the end, everything was really good!
Three women and two children remained in the base camp. And it wasn't scary at all, because, first of all, there was a sense that bad people just didn't get there. And secondly, the tents of our neighbors were quite close. Everyone smiles at each other and is always ready to help. We quietly left tents with things and went to the radials.
Yarlu Valley (4 days)
The next day we got up early, had breakfast and went to the Yarlu Valley.
On our way to the Jarlu Valley, we were finally able to text the family that was left at home. Sent from the weather station, price 150 ля. There's no connection at all, starting with the Three Birch.
And there at the weather station we were taken by boat through Akkem.
Jarlu Valley is a very interesting place! Interesting, at least for three reasons. First, in the valley of mountains of different colors: brown, maroon, gray, purple. You stand in one place, you turn around the axis, and around you colorful mountains.
Secondly, there is a flower that grows only in the mountains: Edelweiss!
There is even a place called the Valley of the Edelweiss, a very unusual flower, it does not have any bright beauty, it seems that it is made of felt, as if not nature created it, but a person: such a dense and furry, slightly fluffy, cosmic flower.
And, thirdly, this place is considered one of the energy centers of the planet. It is there that the stone of wisdom is located - the stone of Roerich.
When we were “charged” from the Roerich stone, it began to rain, and the colors of the Yarlu Valley became even brighter! We were going back to base camp.
The upper part of the ridge, which separates the Yarla and Tekelu River, resembles a lying woman. Thanks to this association, this ridge is called the Mother of the World. It's also called the Cup of Peace.
The bright purple-red rock located in the “chest” of the mother is her heart, it is called: the Heart of the Mother.
Interestingly, the purple pebble, which we picked up in the Yarlu Valley, in the Akkem valley became the usual gray color.
On the way back, when the rain had subsided, we took shelter under a tent of trees and cooked lunch! They ate and with new strength rushed home! Dry clothes!
It also rained over the base camp, but gradually all the clouds went towards Belukha. And we looked anxiously at the clouds that were all gathering together and closing Beluha away from us. I was very worried about how our climbers were doing!
Continuation to be...
Text and photo: Ekaterina Shuvaeva
Dear friends!
You can order excursions around Altai from guides on our website.
Allow yourself to travel in a well-known and popular format - an individual tour with a separate guide.