"Here begins Russia"
Day 1: Taxi, taxi, drive, drive.
There is no one better than my girlfriend. Tom drove me to the railway station and said: "Be sure to write when you will be in Moscow."
Day 2: “M-Moscow, the capital of our Motherland”
From Perm to Moscow about 20 hours by train. A mandatory point before departure was a meeting with a friend. The sun, a walk in the Zaryadye Park, a festival of retro cars near the Kremlin.
Moscow welcomed me well, what can not be said about its airports. More than 40 minutes at the front desk seemed like an eternity. My flight was not confirmed, and in my head was already spinning plan "B" vacation in Moscow.
Day 3: Here Russia Begins
Only 8 hours and you are on the edge of the country, where Russia begins. By the way, the monument with this inscription I also saw.
"Well, hello, Kamchatka" was the first thing I said to myself when I got off the plane and saw the snow-covered tops of home volcanoes.
"Home volcanoes" - the so-called volcanoes, which are located about 50 km from the city.
I waited for my luggage and a car was waiting outside. Vladimir was the name of a local resident who kindly agreed to show the nearest sights and booked me a hostel in advance.
One of the highlights of Kamchatka - hot springs, there we went first. Here you will not find the usual comfortable pools, cozy and warm showers. And the smell of hydrogen sulfide and ice lakes for cooling at least add! The benefits of such baths have long been proven by scientists and have been tested more than once.
Day 4: "Wedge kicks the wedge out"
No bouncer! Even on the train, my throat began to sore, so I did not hesitate to go swimming in the ocean on Khalaktyr beach, the main and most beautiful beach of these places! There was no one who wanted to, but I was not afraid of the wild wind.
It doesn’t matter how good or bad you swim, keep it safe.
The wind with breakneck speed carries you in one direction, and already with the other covers a large wave, and the meeting is knocked back. Do not go far from the shore, the water does not forgive mistakes.
Here you can walk for hours along the coast, watch the ocean, meet people from all over the world, and bask in coffee. The beach infrastructure leaves much to be desired! But learning to surf here come not only residents of our country.
The result of the bath exceeded all expectations, the whole fourth day I lay in the hostel, going out in the evening for medicines and a walk to the bay “Seroglazka”.
Day 5: The Arrival of Sergei
Sergey and I met at the city lake Kultuchnoye. Nearby is the hill Nikolskaya and, probably, the main bay of the city, where many people walk, sell coffee, various buns and souvenirs.
After about an hour of unsuccessful housing search, I offered to settle in the same hostel where I had been staying for 2 days.
Having left things, we ran to walk around the neighborhood. Many people have never been to a volcano in their lifetime. But the sight of the top of the city attracts!
We could not resist and the next day we signed up for the first tour.
Day 6: "First Height"
It was a rough morning. To get to the first volcano, you had to get up early, drive a lot, travel all day.
Mutnovsky is one of the most pop volcanoes, but at the same time one of the most beautiful. Glaciers, lakes, fumaroles, all this can be found on the way.
Throughout the route, our guides answered many of our questions, told interesting facts and helped pass dangerous areas.
Rumors or not, but it is rumored that the lands of Mutnovsky and Gorely were leased to investors of Sochi buildings to the OI. And in the near future, projects will be implemented here, according to which these places will become another typical entertainment, rather than a natural asset of the country.
Day 7: "The water is hot"
The water was hot – after the first volcano I wanted more. Unfortunately, due to weather conditions, some peaks were no longer available. We chose between Gorely and Avachinsky.
Climbing Burning is probably one of my most difficult climbs. The climb seems endless, the sun is hot, and the wind at the top is just a hurricane.
In just a few hours, I became the chief of the Redskins. Yes, burning in Kamchatka in September is also real.
Already at the top of the volcano it becomes clear that there is nothing remarkable in it. A lake that changes color depending on the weather, a beautiful view of the surrounding area and the opportunity to shout so that you can hear your echo and everything!
Day 8: "He's so alone"
We watched the weather and camping program from the evening, we decided that we would rest. It rained almost all day, but this did not prevent you from visiting the incredibly cool volcanology museum (the only one in Russia).
Take care of the museum in advance. It’s worth calling and signing up as tours take place at certain hours with a limited number of people.
Studying the streets of the city, Sergey and I went to the store with branded clothes and souvenirs. The range is really as good as the prices. But the choice is yours. Two floors above found another department where prices do not bite, but the quality of printing magnets appropriate, as well as the choice of clothing. In general, the main locations of the city are hills, bays, and views of volcanoes.
Day 9: "Into a strange monastery with its own charter..."
It is on Kamcha that you realize that you are no one here, nature rules here: winds from the ocean, volcanoes - which do not wait for a command to start erupting, bears - freely walking along the banks of rivers and other animals that do not hesitate to sometimes go to the city.
On the ninth day we went to visit the bears, namely, fishing and rafting on the river Bystraya. We didn’t have time to change into gear, and the first bear came out to meet us. Admittedly, on this day, the conditions for fishing were disgusting: rain poured, cool weather, but to watch the owners of these places trampling the trails at every step, and rafting for the first time, was a pleasure.
Day 10: "He didn't wait, but we turned back."
Our third peak was the Vachkazhets mountain range. In fact, we climbed a little, walked more on the plain, admiring all the colors of autumn, the lake and two waterfalls. On the way from one of them came a bear from the bushes. But then I went to our noisy songs. "He didn't wait, but we did."
If you encounter a bear on your way, do not panic, do not turn your back on it and do not run. Bears prefer to keep a distance from noisy companies, sing songs, knock on loud objects.
On this trip, we met a man from Perm who was a volunteer here. And on a trip to Vachkazhets got out in his free time.
Stock up with nuts (read in advance what exactly), on the way to the top will run cute Yevrazhki, who will gladly accept treats from you.
Day 11: Make a wish
Another reason to fly to Kamchatka is whales. On this day, I once again became convinced that I was absolutely indifferent to seafood, I felt what seasickness is, I caught my first fish, I watched the sea lions, but I never saw whales. However, a boat trip is one of the mandatory points of any tourist. Three brothers, Devil’s finger, no, no, these are not stones from the Perm region (we have the same), all this and not only on the route in the ocean.
Making a wish is one of the things about walking in the ocean. When the captain stops at a certain stone sticking out of the water, you make a wish and throw a coin at it. If a coin reaches and hits a stone, almost everything has come true!
Day 12: "Everything is like a fog here"
Dacha springs are also called the “small valley of geysers”. And for good reason. Everything is noisy, puffy, murmuring and even boiling. Yeah, like that, throwing a couple of eggs, we get them ready in 20 minutes.
It's all foggy. No, this is not another phraseology for a red word. It is true, everything is like a fog, and the fault is fumaroles, of which hot gas through cold water creates the impression of a soaring surface.
Not far from these places there is a small font with minimal warm water. After bathing in the font, our group on the way stopped at thermal springs, where Sergey had not yet been.
Day 13: For a snack
What a snack, the ocean. The sea, the sea, if I may say so. Getting on your own is problematic (bus + walk).
We take a taxi and drive.
Get ready! The taxi driver can refuse the order, as they do not see the place of arrival in the order, and the amount assigned for the departure does not suit everyone.
On the second attempt, we leave for Halaktyrka. I'm back in my repertoire, jumping into the water and coming out almost immediately. No, it's not cold. Scary! Giant waves cover one after another. You don't have time to come out from under one, and another comes at you, and again, and again, and then in the opposite direction. But the energy of the ocean really captures, conquers to madness!
Afterwards, the happy and satisfied entered the only cafe on the beach. Trying Norwegian soup (on cream) - I didn't like it! Due to the lack of conditions on the Khalaktyr beach there is no infrastructure. For this reason, they ate bad soup and drank bad coffee for crazy money.
On the way back, the local guys kindly agreed to give us a ride.
By the way, this is a fairly normal phenomenon here. If a car stops near you, they will probably help you. These trips are very exciting, as most visitors from different parts of the country. There is always something to talk about and invite you to your home.
Last night on the peninsula we left to buy caviar. Or, to be more precise, for a finger-to-sky choice, since Sergey and I do not understand it.
It's important! Don’t put off buying local caviar and fish until the last day. There will be no time to think, choose and bargain. There are 2 options to buy: a large market in the city and private individuals whose numbers can give you local.
Day 14: We did not say goodbye, we said goodbye.
We did not say goodbye, we said goodbye. 8 hours of flight + 9 hours in the time zone and half a day in the capital - so ended my next trip to Russia.
Text: Anna Drozdova
Photo: Sergei Vychuzhanin
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