Tour of Senigallia and Corinaldo

The purpose of our excursion is to acquaint you in contrast with two images of the Marche region, with a dynamic, filled with life, coast and with the so-called outback, located from the sea shore for some 10-20 km, but as if frozen in the distant past five hundred to seven hundred years ago.

Let’s start with the modernity, with the wonderful old town of Senigallia. It became a famous European resort, thanks to the best on the Adriatic "velvet" beaches of small and delicate, like silk, sand. Since 1997, Senigallia has consistently received the Blue Flag for its clean sea and well-kept coastal recreation area. In addition, the city is famous for its history and has a very nice and compact historical center, on a walk through which we will go.

The first thing that falls into the field of view of every tourist is the medieval fortress of Rocca Roveresca (Rocca Roveresca) or literally "the citadel della Rovere", named so in honor of the powerful family of the XIV-XVII centuries, who were the rulers of Senigallia and Urbino, and gave the world two Popes - Sixtus IV (under him built the Sistine Chapel) and Julia II (patron of Michelangelo). The fortress itself was built in the XV century on the site of a former Roman fortification dating from 290 BC. A little later, it took its perfect forms through the efforts of such genius of Renaissance architecture as Baccio Pontelli and Luciano Laurana. The first was especially famous as the creator of the Sistine Chapel in the Vatican, and the second was the personal architect of Duke Federico da Montefeltro, the famous patron and ruler of Urbino.

Moving a few tens of meters away from the Ducal Square (Piazza del Duca), on which Rocca Roveresca is located, we will see Foro Annorario - an architectural structure in the neoclassical style of the XIX century. The square in front of the building for almost two centuries in the daytime serves as a fish, vegetable and food market, and in the evening - a stage for concerts and entertainment events. Foro Annorario is the cultural center of Senigallia, where any resident of the city or visitors can listen to lectures for free, visit the library, use a computer and the Internet, read fresh periodicals.

After taking a few more steps, we will move to Portici Ercolani, the place where the largest international fair was held for five centuries (from the fourteenth to the nineteenth century). The great Italian playwright and libretist Carlo Goldoni (the author of the work “Servant of two masters”, better known here as “Truffaldino from Bergamo”) even dedicated to her the play “Fair in Senigallia”, and she, in turn, inspired no less great Nikolai Gogol to write “Sorochinskaya fair” – the first story from “Evenings on a farm near Dikanka”.

Then our way lies (and this is again some 30-50 m) to the Avenue of the Second June (Corso del 2 guigno) - the central street of the city and the adjacent streets with magnificent palaces, fountains and the house where the future Pope Pius IX was born in 1792. He had to lead the Holy See at a difficult and significant time. Although his papacy was one of the longest in Vatican history (32 years), he had the dubious honor of becoming the last ruler of the Papal States. Due to the defeat of France in the Franco-Prussian War of 1870–71, the Papal States were annexed to Italy. Pius IX declared himself a recluse of the Vatican and did not leave until his death in 1878. In 2000, Pius IX was listed as a saint.

Our tour of Senigallia on the seafront, on the famous velvet beach, will end. The promenade along the sea is famous for its restaurants and cafes, among which there is one of the best restaurants in Italy (6th place in the ranking) Ristorante Uliassi (Ullassi Restaurant). Foodies especially appreciate it for dishes from the sea. The restaurant was awarded 2 Michelin stars. If desired and by reservation, you can have lunch or dinner there and personally get acquainted with his hospitable hosts - brother and sister Mauro and Katya Ullassi.

Under the very curtain, we will walk with you along the long pier of the seaport of Senigallia, look at the fishing nets of trabucco, stand for a while at the sad statue of Penelope, waiting for her husband to go to sea. This monument is quite young, but has already become an unspoken symbol of Senigallia, where lovers meet, and newlyweds leave small locks for happiness.

Next, we take a rented car and go on a tour deep into the hilly part of the Marche region – to the picturesque ancient town of Corinaldo, included in the list of “Piu belli borghi d’Italia” – “The most beautiful fortress towns of Italy”. It is located 18 km from Senigallia.

Corinaldo is famous primarily for its magnificent fortress wall of the XV century, built according to the project of one of the geniuses of the Renaissance Francesco di Giorgio Martini. To no less extent, the town is given a special charm by comic and mocking stories that make up the inhabitants themselves. In this sense, they can be called Italian Odessites or Gabrians. Also, the city claims that its walls are the same Field of Wonders in Foolland, where Pinocchio buried gold coins in the hope of growing a money tree.

From the tragic to the ridiculous, there is only one step. Corinaldo is known throughout the Catholic world for the fact that Saint Maria Goretti was born here in 1890. The piercing story of her short life, tragic and difficult fate became close to many ordinary people, especially women. Maria Goretti is considered the patroness of virgins, youth and rape victims. Catholics regard it as a symbol of bodily purity. In 1950, she was declared a Great Martyr and listed as a saint. Visit the house where Maria Goretti was born and the temple named after her.

Then we will move to a steep and very beautiful staircase of 109 steps, from where in the daytime a magnificent panoramic view opens, and in the evening, after sunset, when ancient lanterns light up along it, the staircase itself and the houses adjacent to it plunge into romantic and mystical darkness. Halfway (on descent or ascent) is the famous Pozzo della Polenta. He is also famous for his famous “stupid” stories, in which the Corinaldesis (the inhabitants of Corinaldo) stubbornly portray themselves as fools. A couple of attractions associated with the ability of citizens to laugh at themselves, you can also see: this House with One Wall (La Casa di Scuretto) and fig gun (Cannone di Fico). Scenes with stories about the Well of Porridge and the fig gun are annually played out during the historical costume performance “Contesa del Pozzo della Polenta” – “The Litigation at the Well of Porridge”. Interestingly, for several years the central role of the Duchess in this 4-day open-air play is played by a Russian actress.

Corinaldo is without exaggeration known throughout the world for his mischievous Halloween "La Festa delle Streghe" - "The Witches' Sabbath." It is held over three days - on the last weekend of October and on All Saints Day (October 31).

A walk through the medieval streets along the impressive defensive fortress walls (912 m) will take you to the late Middle Ages, which seemed to settle in Corinaldo forever and left unchanged the spirit and way of life of that distant era.

On the way back from Corinaldo, we will pass through another ancient town – Monterado. It is located on the top of a high hill, and the castle (Castello di Monterado) dominates the city itself. It is possible to stay for one or several nights, including in richly painted apartments, surrounded by antique furniture and utensils, where in 1939 the daughter of the Russian Emperor Nicholas I, Maria Nikolaevna, spent her honeymoon. Thanks to our high-ranking compatriot, Monterado Castle traditionally orders wedding ceremonies and young couples from all over the world spend the first and happiest days of their married life here.

And, of course, luxurious scenery throughout your tour will be stunning seemingly endless distances with hills and valleys, mountains and the sea.