Beautiful and poor Yerevan
Description:
To visit all the countries of the former USSR is an old dream, since the time of the once seen fountain of friendship of peoples at VDNKh in Moscow. Each country is like a girl with its own history, art, culture, national cuisine and life. But the established centuries-old way of life is very noticeably permeated by the common Soviet past and the Russian language.
How do the peoples of Transcaucasia live? What is behind the great Elbrus and Kazbek? My way lies in the country of lavash and matkanash, cognac and cartoon about carnival.
Armenia.
A plane from Yekaterinburg to the Armenian capital is cheaper than to Georgia. This solved the dilemma of where to succumb first.
I easily pass passport control and get a stamp of entry. Zvartnots Airport is very close to the city and, of course, as in any other airport, after receiving luggage, you have to fight off intrusive taxi drivers.
Public transport is also not averse to take those wishing to the city for 200 drams (17 rubles).
There are many housing options in Yerevan. From expensive hotels to budget hostels.
The first starting point of the walking tour around the city was the Revolution Square, surrounded by yellow buildings of tuff and basalt. The sunny day became even brighter and more pleasant.
On the streets of the city there are various interesting monuments, houses and fountains created by the hands of Soviet architects. In general, the city creates a sense of steadfast Soviet era. Many inscriptions in Russian are intertwined with Armenian curls.
Opening my mouth, I approach the Museum of Contemporary Art. Mashtots, by the way, is the man who created such a strange alphabet for understanding. Giant figures at the foot and a hefty neoconstructivist building with endless staircases reaching into the sky. The guard makes sure that no one touches the exhibits with their hands.
Who knew to go through the whole museum, you can use the internal escalator or even immediately come to the upper observation deck and significantly descend, looking at interesting exhibits. As they say, "a mad dog." So slowly, dragging my legs and taking my breath, I go upstairs on foot. Each flight of stairs has its own exposition. On the parapets, young people skip institutes and couples walk.
The museum was never completed. In 1988, after an earthquake, construction stopped. The foundation of the construction of the rest of the museum can be seen to this day. The upper area is available for viewing the city. There's an extension of the museum.
It is time to walk through the interior of the museum. Each floor has its own interests - work with light, shapes, materials. A whole floor with Swarovski rhinestones. Photography is allowed for almost everything.
It took at least two hours to visit the museum.
The next place that interested me is the Kond slum. This is a specific area of the city, very old and poor. People still live wall to wall, in narrow streets, amid dirt and poverty. The houses are made of different materials and like Frankensteins are clutching into a close embrace. True, rusty fences and rickety walls with falling plaster do not interfere with the neighborhood of quite decent, albeit old cars. Even a nice contrast.
Walking around Yerevan and looking around you are surprised how many new buildings! Many of them are never finished. Empty windows stare lifelessly at other new buildings that are likely to share their fate.
You should definitely buy gifts for your friends. This will help the market "Vernissage" on the street Buzanda. Souvenirs for every taste. Here you can find paintings and jewelry and magnets. Homemade dishes, national dolls, musical instruments, carved board games, silverware and so on. I especially liked the magnets made of real pomegranates covered with varnish.
On the advice of friends, I go to the House-Museum of Sergei Parajanov. You can see the magnificent and multifaceted world of the Soviet director by visiting the house-museum. Amazing collages collected from tea sets, flaps of fabric, glass. Ballpoint pen sketches made during years of imprisonment with sad and ironic signatures. Unusual materials of paintings, colors, textures, combinations. Sometimes you can only guess what moved Parajanov in the creation of works, art or gross outrage.
Yerevan temples.
In Armenia, Christianity is the dominant religion, so there are many temples, churches and monasteries around the city. The most famous of them is Echmiadzin. The buildings are made of tuff and decorated with stone carvings in the national style. This carving is also found on modern houses and fences. Excellent handicraft. The creation of one of them was seen right on the street in the workshop.
The city is full of surprises.
In the building marked on the map as Glavpostamp was a mini-market of cell phones and accessories. Where to buy and send a postcard home could not be found even thanks to the tips of people.
In the underground passage suddenly discovered a clothing market, quite large, but almost deserted.
“Lavash factory” is especially popular during holidays and feasts. They buy it in bulk! You won’t see this amount every day.
Most of all, I was surprised that Mount Ararat is located in Turkey, although it is considered a symbol of Armenia. Significantly looked at the factory of alcoholic beverages, but to buy local products and did not dare.
The most beautiful places in the country are outside the city. I had to make sure of this personally on my trip to Tbilisi.